Sunshine, Sea, and Scuba: A Winter Dive Escape to St. John, US Virgin Islands

Winter in upstate New York is no joke. By Christmas 2024, after months of enduring the icy chill and a canceled dive trip to California's Channel Islands, we were in desperate need of sunshine, sea, and some underwater exploration. We didn’t want to leave the U.S. entirely, and Florida felt a bit too familiar. So we turned our eyes toward the Caribbean, ultimately setting our sights on the US Virgin Islands.

Why the US Virgin Islands?

Warm weather, crystal-clear waters, and no passport required for U.S. citizens? Yes, please. Although St. Croix is considered the diving crown jewel of the USVI, we were planning to meet friends who wanted to island-hop. Hauling heavy scuba gear around can be tough when you're on the move, so we opted for the more accessible and laid-back islands of St. Thomas and St. John. Our goal: blend relaxation and adventure with a splash of scuba.

Packing for a Winter Dive Trip

Packing for a scuba trip in the dead of winter is one of my guilty pleasures. There’s something uplifting about prepping dive gear while snow falls outside. I made sure my underwater camera gear was in top shape—o-rings reinstalled, batteries charged, and housing cleaned. To save weight, I left my strobes and arms at home, opting for a minimalist photography setup with natural light. Risky? Maybe. But it was a creative challenge I welcomed.

Arrival in St. Thomas

View out over Cruz Bay, St John, US VI

We flew from Albany to Fort Lauderdale, and then onto St. Thomas. While our layover didn’t allow for a hotel stay, we managed a nap at the airport and met up with our friends just in time to board our final flight. The moment we landed in St. Thomas, the festive Caribbean spirit hit us like a warm breeze.

We stayed at Olga’s Fancy in Charlotte Amalie’s French Quarter—a charming boutique hotel with spotless rooms and sweeping ocean views. Highly recommended for anyone passing through St. Thomas. After a leisurely lunch and a sunset stroll, we turned in early to prepare for the ferry ride to St. John the next morning.

Getting to St. John

A turtle swims through the reef at St John, US VI

The ferry from St. Thomas to St. John was smooth, but the island's steep terrain caught us off guard. What appeared to be a short walk to our accommodation turned into a 40-minute uphill trek. Thankfully, the property owner welcomed us early and even shared a much flatter route back into Cruz Bay.

That same afternoon, we stumbled upon Low Key Watersports—the dive center I had pre-booked. It was conveniently located near town and our villa. As the sun dipped below the horizon, we enjoyed a cold drink and soaked in the relaxed vibe of St. John, a world away from the bustle of St. Thomas.

First Dives: Cruz Bay Reefs

We checked in at Low Key Watersports the next morning for our two-tank dive. The boat was comfortably uncrowded, with just four other divers. The staff was warm, welcoming, and professional—the epitome of Caribbean hospitality.

Our first dive site was a shallow reef near Cruz Bay. While the reef itself was somewhat underwhelming—likely due to boat traffic and environmental stress—we were lucky enough to spot a turtle. Visibility was around 15 meters, and water temperature was perfect with just a Sharkskin top and shorts. Despite its limitations, the dive was peaceful and allowed me to experiment with natural light photography.

Second Dive: Two Palms

Eagle Rays a Cow Rock, US VI

After a surface interval, we headed to Two Palms. On the way, we passed by a notorious private island formerly owned by Jeffrey Epstein—a strange and sobering sight. The dive itself was pleasant, with slightly better visibility and a bit more depth (around 14 meters). Again, it was a chilled-out experience that emphasized ease over excitement.

Day Two: Cow Rock and Ledges

We returned to Low Key the next day, eager for another set of dives. This time, we explored Cow Rock, our favorite site of the trip. With a maximum depth of 12 meters, we were treated to sightings of eagle rays and another turtle. I managed a few decent shots, though balancing white light without strobes proved trickier than expected.

Our final dive at a site called Ledges was calm and relaxing, if unremarkable. The reef was in moderate condition, and while we didn’t encounter anything spectacular, the experience perfectly capped off our easy-going dive mini-adventure.

Is St. John Worth It for Diving?

Let’s be real: St. John isn’t going to make anyone’s list of the world’s best dive destinations. But if you’re already there for a getaway and want to get in the water, it's absolutely worth it. The vibe is low-stress, the water is warm, and the dive operators are top-notch.

Low Key Watersports gets a special shout-out. The guided dives, friendly staff, and excellent organization made our experience a breeze. For newer divers or those looking for mellow reef dives, it’s a great choice.

Tips for Diving St. John

• Pack light but smart: Natural light photography is doable, but if you’re serious about image quality, you’ll want your strobes.

• Guided dives are a plus: Especially with unfamiliar terrain and boat traffic, having a local guide is invaluable.

• Book in advance: Dive shops on St. John are limited. Plan ahead, especially during peak season.

• Embrace the island time: St. John moves at a different pace—lean into it. Enjoy the experience, both above and below the surface.

Final Thoughts

Our Christmas escape to the US Virgin Islands was just what we needed. While the diving in St. John won’t rival Raja Ampat or Sipadan, it delivered on peace, beauty, and simplicity. For divers looking to escape the winter blues without the hassle of international travel, St. John offers an easygoing alternative.

Next time, we might finally make it to St. Croix to explore its famed walls and wrecks. But for now, we’re grateful for warm waters, good friends, and the chance to get back underwater—if only for a few slow, sun-soaked days in the Caribbean.

Thinking about diving St. John? Don’t hesitate to check out Low Key Watersports and bring along your sense of adventure—you might just find what you’re looking for.

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